Crispin in Spitalfields' head chef Naz Hassan on the pantry power-ups that have kept him positive over the last 18 months
Not going to lie; lockdown had its moments when it was really hard. Thankfully, my girlfriend and my colleagues have kept me sane (mostly). When the restaurant closed it was a complete change in a lifestyle that I’ve had for over ten years. It was tough, but it also gave me the time to cook and eat together with my girlfriend, which rarely happens in a busy week of full service. So we've gotta grab those small positives from all of this! I went back to all the cookbooks I never had the time to read before; like Matty Matheson, NOMA, and Massimo Bottura. We got really into pickling and fermenting for a while - but mainly it’s been loads of curry and fresh pasta at home. We’ve definitely eaten our fair share of takeaway as well though - in Hackney there’s so much good stuff and always someone doing something completely new, so you gotta give it a try.
At Crispin we started making home meal kits back in May 2020 and have just kept adapting with every new change that the pandemic has brought. I think it’s made us more ambitious with our food and the dishes we can offer at home - we’re creating new dishes all the time and pushing ourselves more than ever. It’s been an uncertain time for the hospitality industry but it’s made me even more passionate and certain about being a chef. And the team at Crispin are all legends.
1. Kaffir Lime Leaves
These are amazing because they have this sort of citrusy note that goes so well in mild curries. It’s why I love Vietnamese and Thai food so much, that little flavour is always there in the background. Also, a game changer when you add them to plain rice while you’re boiling it. We get ours from F&A fruits in New Covent Garden Market - through Food Chain.
2. Yuzo Kosho Paste
I use this in absolutely everything, from spicing up a mayonnaise to meat marinades to cheese sandwiches. I get through about a tube a week, it’s turning out to be an expensive habit! I always stock up when I go to my favourite East Asian supermarket, London Starnight in Hackney. It’s a treasure trove, I spend hours and hours just going through everything it has to offer. There’s only about three aisles and I only ever go in for one thing but come out with bags of stuff!
3. Butter
Inside this dish is some of the best butter you can buy - Le Buerre Bordier. It tastes so fresh, you can almost smell the farm yard - in a good way! It’s not 'just' butter either, it’s the star of the show - I could eat this on it’s own between two crackers and be very happy. And any excuse to take a trip to La Fromagerie. That is a pretty special place.
4. Nutella
I’m Italian right, and ate Nutella pretty much every day as a child so it really reminds me of being back home in Milan. After any meal, all I want is a bit of brioche with some good butter (see above!) cooked in a pan, sandwiched together with loads of nutella and a flick of salt. It’s pure comfort food for me.
5. Chilli Oil
The best thing I discovered during lockdown was Mama Li in Bethnal Green, it’s now our Sunday night tradition to get it delivered - always the same order; roast pork, crispy duck pancakes and spring rolls. Honestly, it’s the best cantonese takeaway I’ve eaten here in London. Everything on the menu is delicious but the stand outs are the oils and condiments. I save up the chilli oil and cook with it most days until my next hit!
6. Beer
The thing I missed most during lockdown was sitting in the pub with friends. My local, the Pembury Tavern, serves Jupa from the Five Points Brewing Company - so I like to pour a can of this into a fancy glass and pretend I’m downstairs! But really, I’m just staring at it from my balcony, lovingly. Sob.
7. Grey Salt
Good salt changes everything. This Le Paludier celtic sea salt doesn’t just season, it can change the entire flavour profile of a dish and I find it hard to cook with anything else now. I get it from an independent shop down the road that also has good organic fruit and veg and sustainable options.
Naz Hassan is head chef at all-day restaurant Crispin, in Spitalfields. Keep your eyes peeled for Bar Crispin, a new natural wine bar and restaurant, in Soho this summer
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