Levi Roots catapulted into our collective consciousness when he slayed Dragon's Den with Reggae Reggae Sauce. Since then, he’s written cookbooks, led us through Jamaica exploring Caribbean food on BBC Two, and boldly entered the Celebrity Big Brother house in March of this year.
But this culinary entrepreneur is equal parts chef and musician. He’s performed on the mic with James Brown, counted Bob Marley as a mate, and sees food and music as inextricably connected in his journey. This union started at Notting Hill Carnival, and he first experienced the world-famous street party in the late 1970s, where his aunt had a stall. Later, he opened his own stand, serving jerk chicken doused in his grandma's hot sauce.
For Levi, the music was always as important as the food. ‘I was involved in sound systems from when they first took off, which is where my musical career started,’ he explains, 'I was part of a sound system called Coxsone, sponsored by Nelson Mandela's South Africa.’
He continues: ‘Even though we were Jamaican, it was important that we supported the struggle against apartheid back then.' Music was his focus for about a decade. ‘Until finally, one year, I put down the microphone and decided to pick up the spatula and an apron.’ Reggae Reggae Sauce was born.
Which is why we can't think of anyone better to guide us through the best food at Carnival. Here is Levi Roots’ invaluable guide to the finest jerk shacks, bbq joints and Caribbean restaurants of Notting Hill Carnival, which this year takes place Sunday 25 and Monday 26 of August.
1. Jay Dee’s Catering, 28 Lancaster Rd, W11 1QP
Levi: ‘Jay Dee’s has been there a long time and it’s a favourite with a lot of people. It’s on Lancaster Road, which is always ram-packed. Because they've been around for years, they know how to serve people who may not know about Caribbean food. They're willing to explain what's on offer. They’re not big, it's a small restaurant, but they cook their jerk chicken outside, which is great. People can see what's going on and be part of the action. They’re usually always dancing in front of the barbecue too. There's a connection with the music, they’re brilliant. As a Jamaican outfit, their jerk chicken and rice and peas are banging.’
2. Grannies Caribbean Jerk Shack, Stall 333, 45 Powis Square, W11 2AX
‘Grannies is located in one of my favourite places at Carnival: Powis Square. If there’s a heartbeat for carnival, it’s next to The Tabernacle. The food is authentic; they don't need to pretend. They go straight for the jugular with their jerk chicken, which is their specialty. But I would also order their curry goat. It is succulent and falls off the bone – it’s absolutely amazing. You put it in your mouth, and it melts away. They do a lovely jerk wrap too, if you want to pick up something and keep moving. You can grab it and continue doing your thing.’
3. Cottons Restaurant, 157-159 Notting Hill Gate, W11 3LF
‘Cotton's is great if you've brought some rather posh friends with you, who have weak knees or can’t take the crowd! It’s good to have a place where you can sit down, and that's very difficult to find at Carnival. Some people may also want to go down early and have somewhere to relax as a family, but they're thinking ‘where could we go?’ This is the place I would choose. The food is authentically Caribbean, too. Cottons is right at the centre of everything in Notting Hill - you can't miss it.’
4. The Jerk Hub, Golborne Road, W10
‘I always say that Westbourne Park Road is one of the best places to be, but perhaps Golborne Road is as well. It really has a brilliant vibe, and the food there is amazing. It’s a good place to go, eat early, and then join the floats. The boneless jerk chicken at Jerk Hub is great and there are no bones to throw away or anything like that. They also serve it with coleslaw – it’s good to have something with a bit of vegetables, not just your rice, peas, and chicken.’
5. Mr Roy Jerk Chicken, Golborne Road, W10
‘Recently, I came across a jerk shack called Mr Roy’s Jerk Chicken and was blown away by the taste and diversity of what they do. They’re a family business cooking authentic Jamaican street food. They’ll be pitched up on Golborne Road. The food is brilliant and will line your stomach for the day. Plus, they have a five-star hygiene rating. They make excellent mutton curry and macaroni cheese. I recommend people check them out. They’ll enjoy it as much as I did.’
6. Universal Hot Pot, 110 Middle Row, W10
‘I've got to put my hands up and say, as a die-hard Jamaican, I used to think that Caribbean and African food were miles apart. I was always in the rice and peas camp. But recently, I’ve been trying some jollof rice, and to be truthful, man, it’s been amazing. Universal Hot Pot merges African and Caribbean food and the flavours are equally brilliant. African food and music are going to hit big time this year. We'll hear more Afrobeats at carnival than ever before, and with that comes the food. I’ll be at Universal Hot Pot trying their fusion plates, just don't let my Jamaican friends know!’
7. Curtis Caribbean, 216 Middle Ln, N8 7LA
‘Curtis moved from Jamaica to pursue his dream of owning a Caribbean restaurant (which he opened in Crouch End, but he also has a stand at Carnival). What stands out for me is that he does more than just the usual jerk chicken. Of course, jerk is the star of Carnival, I would never want that to change! But what Curtis brings on board is that he’s a baker, too. So, he cooks savoury, but also cakes. I think it’s really cool – I’ve got a sweet tooth. Plus, coming from a proper restaurant, the hygiene level is very good, which is something you need to look out for at Carnival! I love a little piece of rum cake, it puts me in the mood. Because alcohol, it’s not easy to find at Carnival, right?! I mean, unless you get a Red Stripe from under the counter.’
RECOMMENDED: Everything you need to know about Notting Hill Carnival.
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